The term “salicylic acid” is frequently found on all kinds of acne blogs and forums. Salicylic acid is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare. It enjoys a reputation as a leader in the treatment of skin with imperfections. Praised by both dermatologists and bloggers, salicylic acid is said to be sufficient on its own to treat all types of blemishes. Are these claims verified? Do Salicylic Acid Treatments Have Any Side Effects? Does salicylic acid deserve this extraordinary status in cosmetics?

Acne is a complex and predominantly hormonal pathology. Concretely, the pores of the skin become locally clogged in reaction to an overproduction of sebum. Trapped under the skin, the sebum then forms a microcyst at the origin of open or closed comedones. In the fight against this condition, which can affect men and women of any age, salicylic acid is an essential ingredient. Thanks to its multiple benefits, it relieves the skin and improves the radiance of the complexion. Active anti-blemish par excellence, salicylic acid, is suitable for all skin types. Let’s get to know this ingredient.

Salicylic acid: what is it?

The salicylic acid (or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid) is a powerful organic element. It takes its name from the willow bark from which it was originally extracted but is also present in many fruits and vegetables, including almonds, tomatoes, melons, raspberries, cherries, grapes, apricots. , cucumber, spinach… Among the many active ingredients at the origin of pharmaceutical and cosmetic treatments, salicylic acid stands out for its many therapeutic virtues, especially on the skin.

Since ancient times, salicylic acid has been recognized as having analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties.. Extracted from the bark of Willow (tree or shrub of the Salicaceae family) by different processes, it was at the time used as a treatment against pain and fever and will later become the ingredient at the origin of acetylsalicylic acid, better known under the trade name “aspirin.” In addition to these analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties, there is a long list of various benefits on the skin, making salicylic acid a highly coveted active in the formulation of topical medical treatments and cosmetic products.

Why Is Salicylic Acid Useful For Fighting Acne?

Salicylic acid is a powerful active. Among its many properties, it is commonly used on the skin for its overall anti-blemish action.

Thanks to its astringent properties, salicylic acid has a  keratolytic action on the surface of the skin. It takes off the dead cells accumulated on the stratum corneum and thus stimulates skin renewal. Salicylic acid, depending on its dosage, will, therefore, be very useful for the treatment of certain skin conditions such as acne, warts, psoriasis, and other scaly pathologies, including hyper-desquamation of the scalp (dandruff). Applied to the face by means of serums and creams, salicylic acid stimulates cell renewal and allows the skin to regenerate, thus involving many benefits on:

• The complexion: freed from dead cells that dull the appearance, the skin is more luminous. As for skin prone to post-inflammatory or photo-induced hyperpigmentation, salicylic acid, by eliminating cells filled with melanin accumulated on the surface of the stratum corneum, reduces pigment spots in favor of an even complexion.
• The younger appearance of the skin: stimulated, cell renewal induces skin renewal in favor of smoothed skin.
• Acne: cell renewal inhibits the formation of comedones by preventing blockage of the pores that cause acne.

Thanks to its antiseptic properties, salicylic acid prevents the growth of bacteria, fungi, and viruses on the surface of the skin. It, therefore, stops the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes at the origin of inflammatory reactions in acne, visible in the form of papules and pustules. These antiseptic properties also give salicylic acid a preservative role in the formulation of many cosmetic products.

In what form can salicylic acid be found?

Salicylic acid is a popular ingredient in the formulation of topical medical treatments and cosmetic products for the face and body. The importance lies in its dosage.

When central to topical medical treatments, and therefore used under the supervision of a physician, salicylic acid can be in high dosages. For example, there are 50% salicylic acid in the treatment of warts, 40% of salicylic acid in the treatment of corns, or even up to 30% of salicylic acid in the products used during dermatological peels. Thus dosed, salicylic acid can have undesirable effects. If you notice a skin reaction after medical intervention, you should contact your doctor.

Salicylic acid is also found in a large number of cosmetic products for two reasons: either for its antiseptic properties, which give it the role of preservative or for its many virtues on the skin, in particular in the treatment of skin imperfections. As a cosmetic ingredient, it is safe to use. Indeed, a low dose is enough to benefit from its benefits, and its dosage is strictly controlled:

• When used as a preservative, salicylic acid is formulated at 0.5% maximum.
• When used in a solution intended to be rinsed off (example: shampoos), salicylic acid is formulated at a maximum of 3%.
• When used in other products like serums and creams, salicylic acid is formulated to a maximum of 2%.

On the first application, salicylic acid may cause some stinging. People with sensitive skin may worry about their skin flaking and drying out – a common occurrence at the start of treatment – and believe that salicylic acid is not suitable for them. And yet, this ingredient is highly recommended for sensitive skin. Indeed, thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, salicylic acid adapts perfectly to the most sensitive skin. Finally, be careful, salicylic acid products are photosensitizers. It is therefore recommended to use them in the evening or to follow their application by that of sun protection.